Reasons and Fixes for Drooping Amaryllis Leaves


Prized for their large, brilliantly colored blooms that adorn our homes during the holidays, amaryllis (Hippeastrum spp.) also feature long, strappy leaves that add to their tropical allure.

But if the leaves are drooping, it’s a sign there’s something wrong.

These bright, bold beauties can live for decades either as houseplants or out in the garden in areas with mild winters.

And while they’re easy to grow, even these low-fuss bulbs can fall victim to environmental stressors that cause their handsome leaves to lose vigor and droop.

A close up horizontal image of bright red amaryllis (Hippeastrum) flowers growing indoors.A close up horizontal image of bright red amaryllis (Hippeastrum) flowers growing indoors.

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To be clear, drooping leaves differ from those that just flop.

Healthy leaves that flop are often simply the result of the bulbs being grown in small indoor containers. The containers are small because the bulbs give the best floral displays when they are a bit rootbound.

In small countertop pots, those large, lush leaves don’t have a lot of support to allow them to stay upright.

Usually, adding a stake for support is all that’s needed to keep your plants trim and tidy. And we’ve outlined how to handle flopping leaves in our guide to how to stake amaryllis flowers for support.

But drooping leaves that are sickly looking are a different story, and truth be told, they’re not an uncommon problem.

Amaryllis are generally easily cultivated when their basic growing needs are met.

But if the plants are not receiving what they require in terms of nutrients, sunlight, and water – plus an appropriate dormant period – the result can often be low vigor with limp, lackluster leaves or foliage with a sickly yellow color.

The good news is that most issues are easily resolved, and lush foliage restored, by getting back to the basics of their cultivation needs.

So if you’re ready to reset your plant care regime, let’s take a look at the easy fixes for amaryllis with drooping leaves!

Here’s what we’re looking at:

Why Amaryllis Leaves May Droop

Preparing for Dormancy

If you’ve received a flowering Hippeastrum as a gift, or if you’re new to growing these bulbs, you might not be aware that they require a dormant period after flowering.

Dormancy is needed because after producing those ornate flowers and lush foliage, the bulb’s energy stores are exhausted.

A horizontal image of dying Hippeastrum flowers in a garden bed outdoors.A horizontal image of dying Hippeastrum flowers in a garden bed outdoors.

They need to replenish their energy reserves, then rest for a few months before they can produce another showy floral display.

So if the leaves are yellowing and drooping because the plant’s going into dormancy, that’s good, if a bit unsightly.

This is a completely natural process and necessary for them to reflower, but it does mean losing the foliage for a few months.

However, you can help the bulbs make the most of their dormancy period by looking after the leaves until they start to die off on their own.

Replenishing the energy reserves in the bulb happens after flowering through the process of photosynthesis. The large leaves capture energy from sunlight and convert it into sugars, which are stored in the bulb for the next growing season.

To help your plants recharge, treat them as you would any green houseplant after they have finished flowering.

Continue to water and feed them regularly and keep them in a spot with bright light.

A close up vertical image of a Hippeastrum flower with drooping yellowing leaves pictured on a soft focus background.A close up vertical image of a Hippeastrum flower with drooping yellowing leaves pictured on a soft focus background.

The leaves begin to droop as they gradually turn yellow then brown, and finally die off as the bulb enters dormancy.

The yellow or brown leaves can be cut off just above the bulb to tidy them up before resting.

Because indoor bulbs are forced to flower in winter, which is outside their natural flowering time, their regular cycles can be confused, and they might need a little help to move into dormancy.

Our guide to how to care for amaryllis after flowering details what to do with your plant as it recharges energy stores and how to force it into dormancy if required.

Nutrient Deficiency

It takes a lot of energy for these plants to produce those big, bold blooms!

And if their nutritional needs aren’t met, or if they are overfertilized, drooping leaves are often the first signs of nutritional imbalances.

A vertical image of bright red and white amaryllis flowers growing in a pot indoors.A vertical image of bright red and white amaryllis flowers growing in a pot indoors.

For an abundance of showy flowers and strong, vibrant foliage, keep the following fertilizing tips in mind:

When planting bulbs, mix some bone meal into the soil, using one teaspoon to one tablespoon per bulb.

Use one teaspoon for small containers, one tablespoon for larger ones or in garden beds. Bone meal helps to promote strong roots, robust flowers, and healthy cell growth in stems and leaves.

When the bulbs have been potted up or planted out after their dormant period, wait until new growth emerges before starting a regular fertilization schedule.

As the foliage and flower stems grow, feed regularly with a balanced fertilizer such as 5-5-5 NPK, or a flower-boosting formula such as 4-6-4 NPK.

If you are using liquid fertilizer, feed houseplants every two weeks using a half-strength solution during the growing season. Garden plants can be fed monthly at full strength.

Give your plants a final feed when flowering finishes, then withhold fertilizing to allow them to prepare for dormancy. If you continue to fertilize they won’t enter dormancy and new growth will be weak, producing limp, pale leaves and depleted bulbs.

If you prefer to use slow release pellets, fertilize when new growth emerges and again right after flowering finishes.

Plants that have come from a nursery have been pampered with optimal storage conditions and exact watering and fertilizing regimes.

To continue their vibrant growth, feed during the growing season as outlined above then withhold fertilizers after flowering has finished.

Lack of Sunlight

If you find the leaves are drooping even though all other plant care aspects are taken care of, it could be a result of low lighting.

Extended periods of low light tends to weaken plants, resulting in limp, sad-looking leaves and a yellow coloring from a lack of chlorophyll.

A vertical image of Hippeastrum plants on a windowsill with a few succulents.A vertical image of Hippeastrum plants on a windowsill with a few succulents.

As soon as an amaryllis has finished flowering and the nascent seed pods are removed by deadheading, the bulbs need to store as much energy as possible before dormancy.

And as mentioned above, robust, vibrant foliage is vital for the process of photosynthesis needed to capture, convert, and store energy.

To give your bulbs the best conditions to trap the sun’s energy, move them from their flowering location into an area with strong light as soon as the blooms have faded.

A south- or west-facing windowsill or an enclosed, frost free porch are good options for natural lighting in winter, or you can use a tabletop grow light to improve indoor lighting.

Watering and Soil Moisture

For plants to maintain good health with luxurious foliage, they need regular watering and excellent drainage.

A horizontal image of an amaryllis bulb with green foliage.A horizontal image of an amaryllis bulb with green foliage.

If soil conditions are kept too wet, the bulbs or crown can develop fungal issues such as rot, causing an overall decline in health which can result in drooping leaves.

And if they’re underwatered, the bulbs can shrivel and start to dry, causing curled or crispy brown foliage edges as well as wilting and yellowing.

To maintain optimal moisture levels, ensure your bulbs are planted in well-draining soil in containers with drainage holes.

After new growth emerges, water as needed to maintain lightly moist soil.

You can keep the soil evenly moist or allow the top inch to dry out between water applications – but never allow the soil to dry out completely.

Maintain even moisture levels during the growing season, then reduce watering when it’s time for the bulbs to enter dormancy.

If you’re new to saving your bulbs, be sure to read up on how to force amaryllis bulbs to bloom indoors for a repeat (or even better!) performance next year.

Bulbs should not be watered while they’re dormant, but when it’s time for them to resume growth, return to a regular watering schedule.

Lush, Luxurious Leaves

There’s no need to stress if the leaves of your amaryllis are drooping, because it’s usually easy to restore vigorous, handsome foliage.

A close up horizontal image of bright red amaryllis (Hippeastrum) flowers growing indoors.A close up horizontal image of bright red amaryllis (Hippeastrum) flowers growing indoors.

Be sure to give your plants regular water applications during the growing season, but don’t let the soil become waterlogged. And don’t let it dry out either.

Keep your well-draining growing medium in the “Goldilocks zone” of lightly moist to lightly dry for the best floral displays and healthy foliage.

And fertilize them regularly as well. The bulbs use a lot of energy during flowering and the nutrients contained in the small amount of soil held in indoor pots is depleted quickly.

There’s not much to do about leaves that yellow and droop as the bulbs enter dormancy. You can help the foliage do its job by moving plants into a brightly lit location after flowering to capture as much energy as possible.

Give them the feeding, lighting, and watering conditions they need, and you’ll enjoy fantastic flowers plus lush, luxurious leaves!

Are your amaryllis plants struggling but you don’t know why? Shoot us a question in the comments section below and we’ll work on it together!

And for more information about growing amaryllis, add these guides to your reading list next:



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